Rye whisky has seen a remarkable comeback in recent years. Once overshadowed by other whiskies, this spicy spirit is gaining popularity again thanks to shifting tastes and some clever innovations by distillers. For anyone keen to explore fascinating new drams, here’s a look at the rebirth of rye whisky.
A Whisky Steeped in History
While Scotch and Irish whiskies hog the limelight, rye whisky has an illustrious history. This truly American style of whisky traces its origins to the colonial era when Irish and Scottish settlers realised that rye grain thrived in the harsh climate. They soon began distilling a local version of their beloved uisge beatha or “water of life”.
Early rye whiskies were quite rough, but they supplied a young America with plenty of liquid courage! As the economist Adam Smith noted in 1776, rum could be considered the drink of the southern states, but “in the north, they drink plain American whisky.”
The Fall from Grace
Rye whisky remained immensely popular in America through the 18th and 19th centuries. But this once ubiquitous dram fell out of fashion in the 20th century. As Sam Kass, former White House chef and strategic adviser, explains: “Rye got a bad name during Prohibition when some low-quality stuff made people sick.”
The liquor that emerged post-Prohibition was lighter and smoother. Bourbon stepped in to fill the vacuum, complemented by imported Scotch which was seen as more sophisticated. Rye was left out in the cold, dismissed as harsh rotgut best avoided by respectable drinkers.
An Unlikely Saviour: The Cocktail Renaissance
Just when it seemed rye whisky would vanish altogether, an unlikely saviour emerged – the cocktail bartender! As mixologists revived vintage cocktails, they realised many classic recipes called for the spicy kick of rye.
Drinks historian David Wondrich traces this revival back to the early 2000s when visionary bartenders like Audrey Saunders and Dale DeGroff began championing rye whisky. The creation of cocktails like the Red Hook and Brooklyn kickstarted a new appreciation for rye’s bold flavours.
Flavours Worth Savouring Neat
Of course, no spirit worth its salt relies solely on mixed drinks – it has to taste superb neat as well. Fortunately, modern distillers are creating some sensational sipping ryes using traditional techniques paired with innovative ageing and blending.
Leading the charge is WhistlePig with their estate-grown ryes finished in rare casks. Their Boss Hog series offers whiskies finished in everything from Armagnac to ice wine casks. Enthusiasts also praise the complex ryes from craft distillers like New York’s Kings County and Rhode Island’s Sons of Liberty.
On this side of the pond, English Whisky Co. and Lakes Distillery are producing some tasty rye-heavy single malts. And for a fully Scottish take, BenRiach’s heavily peated Curiositas shows how well rye complements smoky Speyside whisky.
The Perfect Partners for Food
Beyond the glass, rye whisky also shines when paired with food. The spirit’s spicy, herbaceous nature complements cured meats, robust cheeses and grilled dishes beautifully.
“Rye has enough guts and spice to stand up to strongly flavoured foods,” says chef Jeremy Lee. He recommends lighter ryes like Dad’s Hat or Catoctin Creek to complement grazing boards or meal starters. Meanwhile, the caramel sweetness of fully aged ryes like WhistlePig 12 Year or Thomas H. Handy pairs deliciously with blue cheese.
Of course, rye also suits traditional American dishes like burgers or slow-cooked barbecue brisket. Mixologist Charlotte Voisey suggests splashing rye into steak marinades as well: “It makes the meat incredibly tender and flavoursome”.
Raise a Glass to Rye
With so many tempting new bottlings on offer, there’s never been a better time to discover rye whisky. Whether sipping it neat or mixing up a classic cocktail, you’re sure to be won over by rye’s bold and spicy charm. Here’s to the welcome renaissance of this distinctive dram!