Burgundy is not cheap. There is no disguising the fact. But you needn’t be beguiled into paying big bucks for celebrity villages and vineyards which may not live up to the label and the outlay. It is perfectly possible to find wines which deliver at a more modest price – if you have a few tricks up your sleeve.
Home in on talented growers who are still making their name and are reasonably priced compared with the bluechip domains. Many merchants are good at spotting new talent, but don’t tarry – the window of opportunity for a new-talent bargain is small.
Look for negociant wines from you favourite growers or small one-man bands. Everyone wants ‘a bit on the side’ and while the traditional negociants are busy acquiring vineyards, growers are looking for outside sources of fruit to buy in and package under a second label. Good value wine, as opposed to just cheaper wine, will come from those who have an influence in the in the vineyard and make the wine themselves, which include some one-man-band negociants.
Moray Blanc or white Cotes de Nuits may not sound as sexy as Puligny-Montrachet, but the well-priced quality will appeal to those who love sappy, stony Burgundy. The latter is great with food and has added value in its scarcity.
At the entry level, a decent Bourgogne Aligote, Hautes-Cotes, Bourgogne Blanc or Rouge can offer a glimpse into the top domaines at an affordable price. At the other end of the spectrum, good value grand cru can exist where the vines are young. They can give an impression of the appellation’s stature for a decent price.
The Chalonnaise and Maconnais are well known as fertile hunting grounds for a bargain, but they are not quite as cheap as they were. Look to Chablis – not for cheap wines, but to compare the cost of grand cru Chablis with top-flight premier and grand cru whites from the Cote d’Or. They are a steal.